Stranger in a Strange Land

Back in 2002 when we’d been living in Dublin for a month or so I took my usual route to work through town on the bus and noticed something very strange.  People everywhere – the bus, the street, doing their shopping in the mall – had big grey marks on their foreheads.  Not all of them, but many.  The weird thing was that nobody else seemed to notice.  Everyone was going about their business as usual and giving no sign that they’d realised that every second person they passed had an unusual grey dot right there on their face.  It got a bit eerie after a while, the way they were all just acting normal when quite clearly something not normal was going on, and I began to wonder if I’d got on the wrong bus and ended up in some sort of alternate reality filled with aliens.

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I got home and said to Josh, ‘This really weird thing happened today’ and he said ‘Did you see all the people with weird grey dots on their foreheads?’ and I said ‘Yes!  Wasn’t it weird?’ and he said ‘Yes! It was!’  And although between us we still couldn’t come up with any remotely plausible explanation at least I knew I wasn’t going off the deep end.

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Then our Irish flatmate came home and cleared things up for us.  It was Ash Wednesday, so it was.  All the Catholics pop into mass early in the morning and the priest marks the sign of the cross on their foreheads with his finger dipped in oil then in ash and it stays like that all day.

But of course.

I was on the look-out for ashy foreheads this year on Ash Wednesday, my smug ‘I’m all over this, you’re not going to catch me out again’ expression at the ready, but no dice.  Either it’s gone out of fashion in the last fourteen years or I wasn’t walking through a devout enough area.  I was quite disappointed.

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My point here is this: most of the time living in Ireland is just like living in New Zealand except without the pineapple lumps.  The people are the same.  Daily life is the same.  I’ve had more culture shock in a week in America than I’ve ever had here.  But then, just when you think you’re fully on top of things, you get hit by something truly unexpected and bizarre and you realise that it really is a foreign country.

Here’s a more recent example.  Before the school year started in September I got the usual crate of papers to read/fill in/fork out money for.   Enrolment, rules and policies, uniform, starting dates, calendar for the year, same old same old.  Until I got to the yellow one for insuring my children while they’re at school.

It’s a form to be filled in and sent back listing the benefits payable up to a limit of €6,500,000 for various types of misfortune: death, total and irrecoverable hearing loss, permanent total loss of sight in one eye or of one limb/both eyes or two limbs, permanent total disablement and on and on.  I read it and thought, ‘WTAF! What the heck are they planning on doing to my children?’  I took it to show Josh who said ‘WTAF! What the heck are they planning on doing to my children?’  Well, he didn’t really because he doesn’t swear as much as me but it’s what he meant.

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Upon reading further I discovered that if the kids are planning to lose their faculties, limbs or anything else they’re going to have to be quite creative about it because all the obvious methods are excluded from the policy anyway.  They won’t pay out for mishaps incurred in the course of aeronautics or aviation, horse racing or pony jumping, ice hockey, bob-sledding, parachuting, hang gliding, skeletoning (?!?), potholing, motor racing, war, terrorism, rock climbing, scuba diving or white water rafting.  Nor are they interested in your misfortune if you were under the influence of intoxicants or drugs, exposing yourself to needless peril, fighting, engaging with radiation or asbestos, doing crime or suffering from insanity (temporary or otherwise).

Well, I ask you.  They’re teenagers.  If you rule out all that, what’s left?

The cost of insuring your children is minimal, €6 or €9 depending on how much you care about them, but I haven’t filled in the forms and sent them back yet.  I don’t know whether it’s one of those things that everyone does or one of those things that no one does.  I need to collar an Irish person and get some answers.  Also I’m still getting over the shock of being handed a list, with monetary values attached, of all the things that could happen to my children each day when I just assumed they were going to be safely sitting at a desk doing nothing more risky than eating from the school cafeteria.

And sitting in giant deck chairs.

And sitting in giant deck chairs.

On Thursday we got a letter from school about the English curriculum.  They’re introducing a new syllabus and new assessments for the Junior Certificate cycle, which is the second and third years of high school.  It seems to be a full overhaul comparable to the introduction of NCEA.  This, of course, is a big deal.

The thing is, sez the letter, there are two post-primary teacher unions and one of them is happy with the new stuff and the other is not.  The school, like all others, has a mixture on staff of members of both unions and a few belonging to neither.  The union which doesn’t like the cut of the new curriculum’s jib is not allowing its members to use the new assessments.  So, although all classes are being taught from the new curriculum, some classes are using the new assessments and some are not.  What you do in English this year  depends entirely on which union your particular teacher has hitched their star to.  The school, according to the letter, can do nothing about this situation except wait for the second union to iron out their differences with the Ministry of Education.

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Righto, then.  Sounds legit.

Then there was the time that I decided that Noah was old enough to do his own apple-slicing and it turned out that I was wrong.  Who knew such a small finger could hold so much blood?  Off we went to the doctor who said hmmm, it needs stitches and someone needs to do a more thorough check than I can for nerve damage.  He’ll need to go to the hospital.

Right so, I sighed (I hardly need say that this was 5:30 in the evening, the time that all child-related medical emergencies happen), I’ll pop him down to St Michael’s in Dun Laoghaire.  Because of our hit-rate with broken bones, proximity to a hospital was one of the things I took into account when we were making the decision about going without a car.  St Michael’s is barely a hop, skip and jump from Chez Lawrence (although depending on which bone was broken the bus would probably be a better option) so my mind was at rest on that score.

But no. No no no no. Ooohhhh no.  You can’t just take a child to the nearest hospital.  Hospitals won’t treat anyone under fourteen years old.  There are three specialist children’s hospitals – serving a city with a million residents – and I had to take him to one of those.  Do you know how many of the three are close to our house?  Zero.  Do you know how far away the closest is?  Really really far.

That was a fun night.

I assume that this (as well as the school insurance form) is because Ireland is a reasonably litigious country.  Everybody’s worried about being sued.  It leads to a lot of rules.  The number of disclaimers I’ve had to sign for the children to do what I think of as fairly basic activities has me almost worn out.  I’m beginning to see the point of ACC in New Zealand.  Nobody likes the levies but at least we can take an injured child to the nearest hospital.

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Amy is almost fourteen and she’s the one with the most frequent flyer miles by far.  She’s managed to break a bone a year since 2013.  We’re still waiting for this year’s one and I’ve requested that she hold off until her birthday if at all possible.  If she can’t manage this I’m planning to take her to St Michael’s anyway and lie my head off.

It seems the only reasonable thing to do.

 

 

Posted in Irish life | 3 Comments

The Real Reason We Came to Ireland

You thought it was because of sensible economic and practical reasons, didn’t you?  Possibly I gave you that impression in earlier posts.  But no, I just didn’t want to admit the truth: we came here because it’s the only country in the world (as far as I know, at least) where Josh’s birthday is a public holiday.  When we were given a list of Amazon offices to choose from Josh looked down it until he got to Ireland and thought ‘Hey!  If we went there I’d never have to go to work on my birthday!’ and here we are.

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Well, no, that’s not entirely true.  But it’s certainly a bonus.  There are worse ways to pick a place to live.

Josh shares a commemoration day with Saint Patrick, patron saint of Ireland.  March 17 is Josh’s birthday and the supposed date of St Patrick’s death somewhere in the region of the year 493.  Nobody really knows when he was born.  Legend has it that he reached the age of 120 but I think that might be more reflective of the esteem he was held in than of historical accuracy.

Or because he wandered around with that cool light around his head.

Or because he wandered around with that cool light on his head.

St Patrick was born in Roman Britain and was captured, aged 16, by Irish pirates.  He spent six years as a slave in Ireland tending sheep before escaping back to Britain.  Somewhere along the way he had  heard the voice of God and in his twenties he returned to Ireland and brought Christianity with him.  He is credited with using the three-leafed shamrock to explain the concept of the trinity and with banishing all the snakes.  This wasn’t as great an accomplishment as you’d think given that there never were any in the first place, but nobody knew that until much later.  Everybody needs a hero.  What is well documented is that he caused the formation of more than 300 churches and the baptism of over 100,000 Irish people.  Over time he has become a patriotic symbol, like the shamrock and the colour green, and is the person most strongly identified with Irish nationality and heritage.

March 17, then, his Feast Day, is the day when all Irish people here and abroad, and a bunch of the rest of us as well, are obliged to engage in the mightiest craic of the year.  Great is the fun.  Ferocious is the drinking.  All-encompassing is the green, white and gold.  Being Irish (or pretending to be) is what it’s all about and we were all over it.

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It was a busy morning what with having the special birthday breakfast, opening the presents and getting into town with 900,000 other people early enough to get a good possie on the parade route.  It was very cold but not raining (my adopted patriotism might not have extended to that) and we were standing for many hours but we can officially tick Going To The St Patrick’s Day Parade off our list.

And here it is:

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At the train station ready for the off.

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Getting his leprechaun on

Getting his leprechaun on

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Not joking about the 900,000 others.

Not joking about the 900,000 others.

 

There were marching bands,

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people dressed up and dancing,

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a whole lot of disembodied body parts,

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professional drinking teams from around the world,

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and miscellaneous other.

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As we left town afterwards, pushing our way through a solid mass of bodies, the second wave was arriving.  The young and childless don’t bother with the parade; they save their energy for a long night of fireworks, hard-out partying and mucho mucho Guinness.  Nobody goes into work the following day (or probably the one after that) except the people who have to pick up all the abandoned flags, leprechaun outfits, beer bottles and comatose patriots from the streets.

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It was a long day and we had very tired legs and we don’t need to go next year (although we will climb the local hill and watch the fireworks) but it’s the sort of thing you have to do once.  And now we have a good supply of green, white and gold hats and flags and you’d be surprised how often they’ve come in handy.

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Posted in Irish life | 2 Comments