Five Go Mad In Singapore

Welcome back.  Remember me?  I know, I know, it’s shameful.  Let me explain.

I have been using a free hosting website while I worked out whether I would use it enough to justify a real, grown-up paid one.  Let’s not take a vote on that.  It has done the job admirably but its storage space was limited and about the time we left New Zealand, just when things started to get interesting, it filled up.  I could still write text, which needs hardly any room at all apparently, but photos were not a happening thing.  And who doesn’t love photos?

So I had to back up the whole site (and it’s bigger than I thought, mostly because: photos), find a new host that I liked, cross their palm with silver, transfer All The Things across, make it all go, and transfer the domain name.  And when I say ‘I’, of course I don’t mean me.  I can do zero of that.  The person who pays for the rest of us to lounge around in Singapore by spending long days in front of a computer screen had to do all of it when he got home from spending his long days etc etc.  And may I say, he was very patient and obliging about it.  He will persist in actually trying to teach me stuff and make me do things for myself which we both know is a mug’s game and complete waste of everybody’s time but his heart is in the right place.

Without further ado, then, here is my new-and-improved site.  If all goes well you shouldn’t notice anything different at all except that I actually use it.

We left Napier airport early in the morning on February 1.  Amy’s only experience with flying was when she was three months old and the others have none at all so great fun was had by all in the little plane to Auckland because we could see out the windows.  Cassia was very taken with the soft fluffiness of the tops of the clouds and would have really liked to get out and have a play.  Amy took many photos of clouds from above.  Everyone was fascinated.  There were biscuits.  All was good.

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Pictures of people eating are always the most flattering, don’t you think?

We had a few hours in Auckland which we spent with our very dedicated and lovely friends who turned up at the airport with lunch, goodie bags to get us through in case of a food shortage and – wait for it – our cats.  Is that solid friendship or what?  We had re-homed our cats with them a few weeks earlier and Daniel and Noah’s greatest wish was to see their beloved pets again before leaving.  We hadn’t been able to make it to Huntly to visit them so the cats were put in cages, chucked in the back of the van and given a road trip (which all cats love, as you know).  In the airport carpark the kids were all shut in the van with the windows closed tight and they were able to spend some quality time saying goodbye.  We appreciated it very much.

My father-in-law was also able to be there so when the time came to go through the gates we were sent on our way with much love and laughter and we didn’t need to feel sad.  Then it was all go and we didn’t have time.  The excitement helped a lot.

Our chariot awaits in the form of that SIngapore Air plane in the background.

Our chariot awaits in the form of that Singapore Airlines plane in the background.

I hadn’t done a long-haul flight since 2003 and here’s the news: those little screens in the back of the seats with movies and cartoons and headphones are truly God’s gift to the travelling parent.  By the time the kids have watched a movie, had lunch, watched another movie and had tea, you’ve arrived.  Someone should get a Nobel prize.  I had packed sticker books and felt pens and Uno cards but we barely had time for them.  It completely transforms the endless boredom into something almost enjoyable.

Our tickets were booked by a corporate travel agent and when we first received them they had one child sitting with me and everyone else scattered far and wide over the plane in separate seats.  Although I could see potential benefits to this scenario I asked that they change it and we ended up with four of us sitting along the central area and one across the aisle.  Cassia insisted on being that one and had as a neighbour a Middle Eastern man travelling with his small son.  Despite the language barrier he kindly helped her with untangling headphones, working her screen, opening her lunch and various other things.  I guess parenting transcends language.  The set of three seats behind Cassia and her servant was vacant so we all had the chance to sit in a window seat when we wanted and Noah and Cassia were able to stretch out and have a snooze.

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Make sure that at least one of my kids has a broken limb to cross the world with? But of course!

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Being only four foot tall has its uses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The little boy on the other side of Cassia’s travel daddy had Lego in a shoebox, so then:

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Because Lego also transcends language.

After being up for over 20 hours we arrived at Changi Airport and I started to reap the benefits of being on my own with four children: people feel sorry for you and assume you need help.  And who am I to disabuse them of the idea?  We were whisked past a long queue and bundled into a taxi without further ado.

I had booked a hostel because the hotels were expensive and I decided the money would be better spent on fun, and I did not regret it.  It was basic and very mauve but the staff could not have been more kind.  That first night I discovered two things which would come up again and again over the course of our stay: four children really is considered an unusually big family in Singapore, worthy of comment (and sympathy, apparently); and small blond girls with casts, glasses and attitude are also rare and fascinating creatures.

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Very mauve

Although they had a little boy of their own the manager and his wife were taken with Cassia to a ridiculous extent.  Every time we went into the reception area any staff in the vicinity would rush over and talk to her, vie for her attention and give her handfuls of lollies from the basket on the counter, while her siblings looked on in bemused disgust.  If any of us were in the lobby without her we were asked ‘Where is the small one?’  She was a curiosity and a marvel.

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Very very mauve

I had chosen the particular hostel from the internet because its service came highly recommended and it turned out to be a good call.  The manager seemed to make it a personal mission to make things as easy for me as possible.  He booked things, drew on maps, make sure I knew where I was going, sorted out all sorts of little hiccups.  On our final day Noah was looking a bit droopy at breakfast and when the manager looked over and saw me feeling his forehead he asked what was wrong and offered child paracetamol.  Check out time was late morning but our plane didn’t leave until midnight and the plan had been that we’d leave our bags in their storage area, go out for the day then pick up the luggage and go to the airport early to fill in the time.  When he saw that all may not be well, the manager gave me the use of our room for the rest of the day instead which meant that we could go out and have fun then come back for the evening, have a rest or a sleep, pack up at our leisure then leave for the airport in time for check-in without having to wait there for hours because we had nowhere else to go.  Noah turned out to be fine but it made the day, and particularly the time until we could fall asleep on the plane well after midnight, so much easier and less stressful for all of us.  There was no extra charge or anything.  A small thing for the manager, probably, but by the point where we were near the end of our third consecutive 20+ hour day, a huge thing for me.

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The view from our window.

In fact Singapore was full of helpful people.  It was clean, it was organised, it was easy to get around on the train and it felt very, very safe.  It was the right place for us.

On the first day we were all awake and ready to go well before the day was ready for us.  It was nearly lunch time according to our bodies but barely 5a.m. according to the clock.  Because we had been sent off from Auckland with a food bag each by The Most Organised Friend In The World we were able to take the edge off the hunger and go outside for a wander around. It was very dark and very hot and quite surreal, really.

The day’s main activity was swimming.  We went into town first on the rapid train to buy tickets for the next day’s adventure and to eat the most juicy and flavourful fruit ever from a little shop which sold nothing but cut-up fresh deliciousness.  By the time we’d wiped the stickiness from our chins and taken the train home we were in serious need of cooling down so I checked with Aunty Google and selected a likely-looking spot.

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It was a reasonably long train ride to the Jurong East Swimming Complex but so very very worth it.  It had a kiddie pool with a wet playground, a wave pool, a lazy river with all sorts of interesting features, big floaty inner-tube things, water slides, restaurants, all sorts.  I’m amazed that it’s not a tourist attraction – I didn’t see it advertised anywhere, I only found it by Googling for public pools, and we had it to ourselves apart from a few local families.  How do people not know about this place?  It should be way more famous.  And, even better, the entrance fee: when I went to pay the clerk apologised to me because it’s more expensive than the other public pools because of the extra facilities.  The total cost for five of us? Six dollars.  We stayed for hours and it’s probably the best value I’ve ever had from small change.  There aren’t many photos because I was too busy getting wet but here goes:

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If you look carefully in the photo on the left you can see my favourite part, a sort of tornado-looking thing under the bridge.  It was a misty shower that you could stand in and it sort of rained down and swirled around you.  After the weeks of rushing and organising and the days of travelling and being responsible for the children in a foreign country on my own there was something about standing under there and feeling the water coming down that just washed all the tension away.  Totally recommended.

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While we were there Cassia taught herself to swim because the lazy river pushed her along at just the right speed to make floating easy.  She made that leap that they all make eventually from trying to keep her head out of the water, and therefore sinking the rest of herself, to relaxing and realising that having your head go under is fine and physics takes care of everything if you let it.  She was very proud and I was able to tick the ‘See!  It’s educational’ box.IMG_2147

Nobody wanted to leave so we had dinner there and then it got dark so we had to.  On the train ride home we were standing next to a lady with no English at all who managed to communicate that I had a lot of children, that Amy looks like me, and that they were all very good and quiet except for Cassia.  Yep.  Then all of a sudden the 16-hour day, the many hours of swimming and the half hour of jumping around being a pain on the train caught up with Miss Look-At-Me and she conked out.  I carried her from the train to the hostel and up the stairs to bed and that was Day One.

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The next day we went to Universal Studios.  The kids had no idea what it was and Daniel, with his constant fear of being taught something against his will, campaigned against it because he thought it would be about how movies are made.  He’s never been so happy to be proved wrong.

We took the train and the cable car because it’s on an island.  And then we had, officially, the Best Day Ever.

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SIngapore harbour

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They have a merlion. Half mermaid, half lion. As you do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Again, not many photos and no action shots because I was way too busy for that.  It wasn’t really that overcast, it’s just that I was taking photos through the cable car windows.  I believe that if you click on any of the photos you get a larger view.

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The tail end of the merlion, and the kids doing their best ‘Can we please just get on with it’ faces.

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The Shrek castle (I think)

 

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The Madagascar ride

 

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‘Mummy! The ice-block’s got TWO STICKS!’

 

 

 

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And the one I took because I knew it would make Josh laugh. Vin looked very real, Cassia approached with caution and did a bit of poking before she was satisfied that he wasn’t going to start talking or anything.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Universal Studios was pure magic.  We could have spent days there.  We got through truckloads of water and a good few ice blocks but mostly we were too busy to want to waste time sitting and eating.  Like the rest of Singapore although it was crowded it felt very, very safe and I had no qualms about letting Amy and Daniel and even Noah go off to do their own thing.  There was plenty for all ages and a 4D Transformers ride that was absolutely mind-blowing.  The technology they use for those things must be incredible.

Again, nobody wanted to leave.  Although we had been there for eight hours and awake for a lot more I had to use serious bribery to drag them away.  ‘We have a plane to catch!’ didn’t even come close.  They were all happy to forget Ireland and live at Universal Studios.

We went to get our stuff from the hostel, the kind manager hailed us a taxi and said goodbye to Cassia, and we went to the airport.  Noah and Cassia fell asleep in the taxi and, once on the plane, Noah and Amy were both out like a light before the rest of the passengers had finished boarding.  It was a very long day (that happens when your body clock tells you that four a.m. is a reasonable time to start) but I’m fully confident that we wrung every last drop of enjoyment out of it.  Nine months later the kids still talk about Universal Studios.  Parenting win.

And on the off-chance that any of you are not yet catatonic after this ridiculously long post, I bid you goodnight.

 

 

 

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The Most Haunted Building in Ireland

Because I’m a friendly soul, when someone says ‘Bus trip and lunch for five euro’ I say ‘Righto then’.  So it was that I ended up at Wicklow Gaol, officially the most haunted place in Ireland.

When the kids heard that I was going somewhere with bona fide ghosts they were all clamouring to get in on the action and I said that although obviously I’d really love them to join in with the quiet, relaxing, orderly parents’ trip it wasn’t allowed and we could do a trip there ourselves sometime.

But we won’t.  Not for a long time anyway. It’s amazing as an historical venue and educational centre but it’s no place for children even without the ghosts.

There are some places that just change you, you know?  In some small way you’re never going to quite leave behind what you experienced there.  Pearl Harbour is one such place, in my experience.  I’ve heard people describe Anne Frank’s attic and former concentration camps in the same way.  I will say now that I saw no ghosts and felt no supernatural energy – nor did I expect to – but if there’s anywhere that deserves to be haunted this is it.

Wicklow Gaol was built in 1702 and the first prisoner, later transported to Australia, was a seventy-year-old priest who’d been caught saying Mass. This was the era of the Penal Laws and the Protestant Ascendancy.  The Penal laws were designed to uphold the power of the (Anglican) Church of Ireland by keeping Catholics, Presbyterians, Jews and other undesirables disenfranchised and impoverished.  When you take into account the severity of the laws, the length of time they were in place and the places like Wicklow Gaol which were used to enforce them what we’re really talking about is a robust attempt at genocide.

Under the Penal Laws Catholics were barred from holding public office, from owning guns or joining the military, from voting, from owning a horse valued at more than five pounds, from buying land, from inheriting under many circumstances, from teaching children or being educated, from marrying Protestants, from being lawyers or judges, from adopting children and all sorts of other things.  They were allowed to do nothing that would give them any chance to better their life circumstances or their children’s.  For generation after generation they were denied any hope of a better future.

The sad thing (well, one of so very many) about all this is that as far as I can work out it wasn’t about the Irish at all.  The real Catholic-Protestant power struggles were going on in England, Scotland and France.  Their kings and queens were slogging it out over centuries and Ireland was collateral damage.

Wicklow Gaol was home over the years to rebels from the 1798 Rebellion, the 1916 Easter Rising, the Anglo-Irish War of Independence in 1919 and the Irish Civil War in 1922 as well as people who fell foul of the Penal Laws, those who couldn’t pay their debts, the insane, thieves, prostitutes, murderers and everything in between.  During the height of the Famine in 1848 it had a population of 780 housed in 77 small cells.  The diet in 1845 consisted of potatoes and milk for breakfast and tea with bread on Sundays but during the Famine there were no potatoes so it was ‘meal’ and bread.  Despite the meagre rations there were people who committed crimes on purpose to get into the Gaol because it was better than starving.  When you go there and get an understanding of how hellish the conditions were, then find that people went there by choice because it was the best option they had, that’s when you get the Pearl Harbour/Auschwitz effect: in this place occurred something so big and so evil that its shock waves still bring you to your knees over two hundred years later.

It was overcrowded, freezing in winter and boiling in summer.  All prisoners were put in together.  Men and women and children, bread thieves and brutal killers, sane and insane, there was no distinction or separation.  Diseases like goal fever (typhoid) and dysentry ran rife; so did sexually transmitted infections and, you’d have to assume, unwanted pregnancies.  People were flogged, tortured and executed and there was no regulation whatsoever.  The prison guards were expected to feed and clothe prisoners out of their own salaries so we can imagine how that worked out.  Bribery was the main way that anything got done but many of the prisoners were in there for crimes of poverty anyway so for most there was no help there.  Once your sentence was served you had to pay to leave which again was beyond the reach of many so they just stayed there.  Many people died in Wicklow Gaol and if their spirits are still there now I can’t say I blame them.  I’d be surprised if they weren’t.

When I say people were executed I don’t just mean the worst of the worst every now and then.  I mean in large numbers.  The bodies were disposed of by taking them out into the harbour and chucking them overboard.  This practice was stopped eventually when the local fishermen refused to go out fishing any longer because the harbour was so clogged up with corpses.

I am not making this up.  I wish I was.

People who died of typhoid were often left to rot in their cells until everybody in there was dead because the guards didn’t want to risk going in to get them while there were people alive who may have been contagious.  At one point there was a semi-tame hawk who was let into cells sometimes to clean up but eventually it was trapped by a starving prisoner and eaten.

And now you see why Wicklow Gaol won’t be on our list of Fun Family Activities over the summer holidays.

To relieve overcrowding and raise the tone of the country many people were ‘transported’ – sent to Australia, America, Canada and the Indies to live out their lives and die there.  There was no return.  The youngest prisoner to be shipped off in this way was an 11-year-old girl who had been caught stealing a small amount of cloth.  Again there was no regulation, no separation of prisoners and not much in the way of food or water and those who didn’t die on the way probably wished they had.

Last year, our guide (dressed as a matron of the time) told us, an Australian lady came to visit the Gaol.  Her great-great grandmother (maybe more greats) had been shipped for killing her baby.  She married in Australia, had more children and started a family now large and well-established there.  Good for her.  When some of the descendants researched her past they found that she had suffered from what we now know as epilepsy and had, most likely, accidentally suffocated the baby during a seizure.  One of the witnesses who’d testified against her had a history of accepting payment to say whatever was needed at trial.  There’s no point in trying to imagine what that poor woman suffered; madness that way lies.

During the 19th century conditions began to improve.  This was the time of Reform Societies and philanthropists taking an interest in Doing Good Works.  The focus changed from punishment to education and rehabilitation.  There is a classroom in which children did schoolwork and others were taught trades and skills such as fabric-making.  Medical attention was provided giving people yet another reason to commit petty crimes to access help which they couldn’t get outside the gaol.  A new governor was hired who wouldn’t accept bribes.  Torture and transportation were phased out.

Wicklow Goal was closed in 1924 after the Civil War ended.  It was used as a storeroom by the local council until 1985 when it was recognised as one of the country’s most historic buildings.  It was restored through the ’90s and opened to the public as a heritage centre in 1998.

Wicklow Gaol has officially been listed as the most haunted place in Ireland and one of the top ten in the world.  I don’t know who measures these things but there’s certainly an impressive list of spirits who’ve apparently made themselves known there.  Many paranormal investigators have visited to check it out and they seem convinced.  The T.V. show ‘Ghost Hunters International’ made an extra-long episode about it (I think they were the ones who ‘officially’ declared it ‘the most haunted’ etc etc.  They’d know as well as anyone I guess).  The guide who showed us around seemed like a very normal down-to-earth person and she said she feels an energy from time to time.  Not scary or angry, just there.  She says a quick rosary when that happens.

Who am I to say?

Most of us Kiwis have an Irish forebear or several.  I’d never given any thought to the conditions in which mine were living, or why they left, but I have now.  I suppose I had an image in my mind of people growing potatoes in beautiful landscapes, living in cosy thatched cottages and dancing the Irish Jig to a merry fiddle on Saturday nights.  Poor but bearable.

In truth it was probably far uglier.  If you are a descendant of the Irish, for the love of God, don’t ever take for granted the incredible odds that the great-great-grandparents had to beat in order for you to be here at all.

And that’s all I have to say about that.

 

 

 

 

 

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